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By KAREN KLENKE
For The Daily News
NIAGARA, Wis. -- Mark Marcouiller has carved his way into the history of Niagara butchers.
Marcouiller recently shared his story in the meat room of the Northwoods IGA -- a store that had the Marcouiller name for more than 100 years. He recalls how he learned his trade from the hands of his uncle, Clarence Marcouiller, in the old store on River Street, now the home of the Niagara Historical Museum. He was 13 when he picked up a knife for the first time.
Marcouiller's grandfather, Henry, was part of the Polish connection of butchers and grocers that brought fresh meat and produce to the growing community of Niagara in the 1920s.
Frank Kadulski and John Zaidel were friends of the Marcouillers and met the needs of the times. So many stories to recall of the early days: fresh meat butchered from local farmers. Stories of trucks of live chickens going through the streets of Niagara to sell to families and butchered in their own back yards. He remembers that Marcouillers and Zaidels were neighbors on Hill Street. Bernadine (Kadulski) Clement recalls the wives of these families would talk on the phone for hours in Polish.
That was then, this is now as Mark Marcouiller carries on the talent taught to him by his father, Jim Marcouiller.
His father would tell him, "The customer writes your paycheck, not me. Give them exactly what they want and make sure they have a good product." He's always creating new product as well as keeping the tradition and family recipes for porketta and Italian sausage.
Marcouiller has created a secret recipe for his seasoning used in his specialty meats. Now 30 flavors of bratwurst fill the meat cases when grilling season begins.
A hundred years ago, the local grocers took care of the growing community of families working in the mill. Many recall Niagara had seven grocers to fill the tables. Now the scope of The Northwoods store -- and especially Marcouiller's meats -- reaches much farther. Families from the cities who come north have found this gem in Niagara. They stop to pick up whatever he has in his meat case. Some call ahead to place their orders for vacation time and on the way back home. Marcouiller draws regular local customers from a large circle of communities.
Everyone is greeted with that gracious attitude taught to him by his parents, Jim and Dorothy.
The rest of the story is that Marcouiller has a son, Markie, who is also a meat cutter. And now he has a son, Mathew, who is 5 months old -- you never know.